What makes Singaporean Malay food unique? From mee rebus to nasi lemak, historian explores the tantalising gastronomy of ‘Nusantara’ in new book

Malay food continues to gain popularity around the world but it is, at times, still misunderstood. In Britain, for instance, a Malaysia-born contestant was eliminated from cooking show Masterchef in 2018 after one of the judges said her chicken rendang – a dish that is traditionally slowed-cooked in coconut milk and spices until tender – was not crispy enough, almost sparking a diplomatic incident.It is little wonder the cuisine’s complexity remains unfamiliar to most. Beyond the five basic…